Black Hair Care

Are shampoo bars a good choice for curls and coils? - Learn

2012-05-09T04:32:49Z

Q: I want to go sulfate-free and try shampoo bars, but I've seen mixed reviews. Will they work for my hair?

A: To answer this question, let's examine the ingredients list of two popular shampoo bars...

Shampoo Bar 1: purified water, glycerin, sodium stearate and sodium oleate, sorbitol, stearic acid, lauric acid, African black soap, cocoa butter, cetyl alcohol, coconut oil, lavender, tea tree and citrus essential oils

Shampoo Bar 2: purified water, saponified olive, coconut and safflower oils, jojoba oil, shikakai & amla herbs, apple cider vinegar and panthenol

The two shampoo bars are made with slightly different recipes, but the cleansing ingredient in both of them is soap. For all intents and purposes, the "sodium stearate and sodium oleate" in Shampoo Bar 1 are the same as the "saponified olive, coconut and safflower oils" in Shampoo Bar 2. The first bar lists the scientific name for soap, while the other used more laymen terms. Soap is made by mixing water, fat from an oil or butter, and lye (sodium hydroxide). In the "sodium oleate" listed in the Grand Poo bar, the "sodium" comes from sodium hydroxide and the "oleate" means the fat used was from olive oil.

Soap has been made using sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide for centuries, but it's always had two major problems:

1) It's impossible to make pH balanced soap. As we know, sodium hydroxide has a high pH and the resulting soap usually has a pH around 10. Skin and hair are made of keratin proteins and all types of protein are sensitive to pH. Our skin and hair can better maintain their natural strength when they are kept at acidic pH values between 4.5 and 6.5 during cleansing. An expert soap maker can make a soap bar as low as pH 8, but attempting to lower the pH below 8 will make the soap look more like a creamy liquid (not a solid bar anymore). Some hair types aren't affected by high pH, but coils and curls are more sensitive because of their naturally raised cuticles. It's always best to use a shampoo with a pH between 4.5 and 6.5.

2) Soap causes soap scum in hard water. If you use a shampoo bar in tap water that contains a lot of calcium, the calcium will attach to the saponified olive oil/sodium oleate and form scum that settles on your hair (and leaves stains in the tub). The mineral residue will make your hair more prone to tangles and knots. Hard tap water is common in Southern California, the Mid West, and Texas. If you have hard water, your hair will feel and look better if you avoid soap. Most shampoos contain chelating ingredients like Phytic Acid or Disodium EDTA that counteract the effects of hard water.

My recommendation is that you choose a shampoo made with more gentle cleansing ingredients like "Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate" and "Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate". Those are sulfate-free detergents that are used in pH balanced shampoos. If you choose to wash your hair with a shampoo bar or any other soap, you can rinse off any mineral residue that may be on your hair at the end of your shower using 1 cup Apple Cider Vinegar mixed with 1 cup warm distilled water. Happy cleansing!

Joico K-PAK Revitaluxe Bio-Advanced Restorative Treatment - Featured Products

2012-04-01T19:09:16Z

To make chemical treatments less damaging, use this product for 2 weeks before your salon appointment.

Editor's Review: Goody QUIK STYLE Paddle Brush - Do-It-Yourself

2012-03-23T18:02:10Z

Goody QUIK STYLE Paddle Brush, $11.99

According to Goody

Go from wet to beautifully styled hair faster than ever! Super absorbent microfiber bristles remove 30% of water as you style*. It's like a towel and a brush in one.

*In laboratory testing, the Goody QUIK STYLE brush removed an average 30% of water from hair across a variety of hair types. Results vary upon usage.

Why I was willing to try it

Usually I have a "just say no" attitude toward brushes. Every brush I've tried, whether it had boar or plastic bristles, has left my hair with split ends. Goody's new brush looked promising for a few reasons:

Plastic bristles: Brushes with bristles made from natural material like boar hair are slightly sharp at the end. Plastic bristles are smoother and blunter so there's less risk of mid-shaft splits and cuticle damage.

Ball-tipped bristles: The ball on the tip of each bristle creates more space between the bristles which should equate to less damage.

Double-duty appeal: Kinky hair is easier to comb when it's wet but it's more breakage prone than dry hair. It sounded like detangling and drying the hair at the same time could result in less manipulation overall.

Tests & Results

Although the brush is intended to be used on wet hair, I began my tests by brushing a 2-inch section of dry, previously detangled hair. I brushed from end to root and after 2 strokes a broken hair approximately 1-inch long fell out. When I examined it, I saw a ¼ inch long split at the end. It was a sad, sad sight.

The brush is not intended for use on dry hair, so I knew my testing wasn't done. I tested the brush again after shampooing and conditioning my hair. I began brushing the same 2-inch section I brushed before washing, except this time it was soaking wet from the shower. The brush got tangled and stuck in my coils on the 1st stroke. After I gently pulled the brush out and examined the bristles, I saw long broken pieces stuck between them.

Final Recommendation

The Goody QUIK STYLE Paddle Brush is Not Recommended for kinky-coily or curly hair.

The ball-tipped plastic bristles looked promising, but they are still too close together for our tangle-prone strands. The absorbent microfiber between the bristles may help the hair dry faster, but it's not worth risking significant breakage with each use. The brush is also very large (the paddle section is 3 inches wide), so detangling small sections is close to impossible.

One of my favorite sayings, "If your hair's not breaking, don't fix it". I never see split ends when I stick to my wide-tooth detangling comb in the shower. It would be a mistake to change a perfectly good routine just to use this brush.

If you need a brush to achieve your favorite styles, the Denman D14 continues to be the best choice.

Tips for faster drying

To decrease your drying time, apply your leave-in products to wet hair and then gently blot your product-soaked strands with a hair towel or soft cotton t-shirt.

If you're wearing a wash n' go or twist out, finish drying with a blow dryer and diffuser on the LOW setting.

Natural hair can be styled any way you like - Hair Tip of the Day

2012-03-22T16:46:51Z

Most women with natural hair use 2+ products each day and wet set their coils with twist outs or braid outs. Don't assume that you can't duplicate a style because of your hair type. If you can make your hair look like Rihanna's you can make it look like Corinne Bailey Rae's.

How to do a Pre-Shampoo Oil Treatment - Do-It-Yourself

2012-03-17T20:37:16Z

Key Tips

Use pure, natural oil for the best results. Scientific research shows that coconut oil is the most effective choice, but olive oil and jojoba oil are also beneficial.
Only do an oil treatment if you plan to shampoo, not cowash.
Detangle your oil-coated hair with your fingers before you wash your hair.

Step 1: On wash day, divide your dry hair into 4-6 sections. Do not wet your hair.

Step 2: Apply a heavy coating of pure coconut, olive, or avocado oil throughout each section. Make sure to put oil on every layer of your hair from root to tip. Use 4-6 tablespoons depending on your hair thickness and length.

Step 3: Cover your hair with a plastic cap to keep the oil from dripping down your face and neck.

Step 4: Leave the oil on your hair for 20 minutes to 1 hour. Some say it's better to keep the oil on longer (even overnight), but you'll have to decide for yourself.

Step 5: Before you shampoo your hair, gently comb it out with your fingers to remove any tangles or knots. If you notice any breakage, skip this step and head for the shower.

Step 6: Follow this tutorial to wash your hair with minimal breakage.

Updated May 8, 2012

As I Am Cleansing Pudding - Featured Products

2012-03-05T23:11:49Z

This moisturizing cleanser promotes scalp health and helps the hair retain moisture between washes. A must-have for new naturals!

How to Protect Your Hair While Swimming - Do-It-Yourself

2012-03-02T06:41:50Z

You don't have to limit your pool time for your hair, but you do have to take some extra precautions. Chlorinated water and constant friction from swimming will take a toll on African American hair. Spend a few minutes before and after swimming to help your hair survive the summer.

Key Tips

If possible, rinse your hair with tap water before you get in the pool.
Don't wear a swim cap if it pulls too tightly or rips out your hair at the hairline.
Always shampoo after you swim, chlorine does not rinse out.

Step 1: If possible, rinse your hair in the shower before getting in the pool. If your hair is "filled up" with tap water it won't be able to absorb as much chlorinated pool water.

If your hair is "filled up" with tap water it won't be able to absorb as much chlorinated pool water. There's usually a shower right near the pool that you can use to rinse your hair before and after diving in.

Step 2: Apply a thorough coating of a hair serum to your dripping wet hair, paying special attention to the ends. The serum will help protect your hair from friction while your swim. Choose an inexpensive serum like John Frieda Frizz-Ease Original Serum, $7.50.

Step 3: (Optional) Put on a swim cap. Many swim caps are so tight that they pull your hair out when you take them on and off. Try a Speedo Silicone Swim Cap, $7.99. If a swim cap causes you to lose hair, don't use it. Just let your strands hang free instead.

Step 4: After you swim, rinse your hair with tap water again. It's best to wear a hat if you plan to stay in the sun after you exit the pool.

Step 5: Always shampoo your hair after you're done swimming for the day. It's important to use a shampoo that gets rid of chlorine and mineral build up. If your regular shampoo contains EDTA or Phytic Acid it will provide thorough enough cleansing. If your regular shampoo doesn't contain EDTA or Phytic Acid, buy UltraSwim Chlorine Removal Shampoo, $15.21 for a pack of 4 ($4.99 each MSRP) for pool days.

Step 6: Continue with your usual shampoo and condition routine. You must take the time to condition your hair every time you shampoo it, even if you swim every day.

Step 7: When you style your hair it would be best to avoid direct or high heat. Try to limit your use of heat to a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment or a bonnet dryer on low.

Only condition the hair you want to keep - Hair Tip of the Day

2012-02-27T05:27:12Z

Your roots will grow out and become your ends within 2 years, so condition every inch of every strand, every time. Saturate your hair with conditioner in the shower, leave it in for the recommended time, and comb it through from ends to roots before rinsing it out.

5 Tips to Speed Up Your Roller Set - Do-It-Yourself

2012-02-26T23:26:06Z

Use a leave-in that contains amodimethicone

Amodimethicone is a type of silicone that strengthens the weak areas of your hair. You may be tempted to reach for a more natural sounding ingredient, but oil-laden products increase your drying time without giving your hair any additional moisture. For a smooth, bouncy roller set, choose a leave-in conditioner or styler that contains amodimethicone and make sure to cover every strand. To make your set last longer, follow up with wrap lotion or an alcohol-free mousse before putting the rollers in.

Try Curlformers or Flexi Rods

Curlformers and Flexi Rods are different than traditional rollers because your hair hangs down instead of being tucked under. Since you aren't rolling the hair over itself, your roots can dry as fast as the rest of your hair.

Apply your products to towel-blotted hair

Towels are usually the enemy of frizz-prone hair, but when roller setting you can save time by blotting away excess moisture when you get out of the shower. Keep a spray bottle handy to mist any sections that become drier than you'd like.

Don't dry longer than necessary

That sounds obvious but we've all tried sleeping in rollers at least once. The tension of sleeping on rollers is not good for your scalp so don't make that part of your regular routine. Using the right products will help your set air dry (no heat) within 3-4 hours. For the quickest results, use a blow dryer on the warm setting for 15-30 minutes.

Roll small sections

The less hair in each section, the quicker your hair will dry. Buy enough rollers that you don't have to worry about running out. You don't need to make small parts with a comb, just grab sections about ½ inch wide and start rollin'.

Drink water to help your hair grow - Hair Tip of the Day

2012-02-05T18:07:26Z

Water intake is an important part of healthy hair growth. Do your best to drink about 8 cups every day. That's about the same amount as a 2 liter bottle. If you can't drink that much, just get as close as you comfortably can. Remember, if you're thirsty, your hair is thirsty too!

CURLS Goddess Glaze - Featured Products

2012-02-05T05:33:44Z

CURLS Goddess Glaze is a strong hold gel that defines and moisturizes natural hair. Great for humid climates and light enough for fine strands.

Best of the Web: How to Diffuse Natural Hair - Do-It-Yourself

2012-02-01T23:29:51Z

Taren Guy demonstrates exactly how she defines her short natural coils with a blow dryer and diffuser. To get the most defined results, use the "fingers" of the diffuser to fluff your hair as it dries.

Channel: YouTube's Taren916

Detangle your hair while it's soaked with conditioner - Hair Tip of the Day

2012-01-23T05:51:19Z

Before you rinse the conditioner out of natural hair in the shower, comb it through with a wide tooth comb. Natural hair is very prone to breakage from combing so it's important to get through most of the tangles while the hair is soaked with conditioner. If your conditioner doesn't have enough slip, mix about 1 tablespoon of olive oil with each palm full of product.

It's better to dye your hair darker than lighter - Hair Tip of the Day

2012-01-16T05:26:26Z

If you must go lighter, stay within 3 shades of your original color. That means black hair should not be bleached past light brown. Lightened hair is very fragile which means you'll need to use a reconstructing or repairing conditioner each week in order to minimize breakage.

Make Your Straight Hair Last Longer - Learn

2012-01-16T02:29:25Z

Use products that promise humidity protection

The hair at your roots is usually the first to revert back to curly because it absorbs the most moisture whenever you sweat, take a hot shower, or go outside in humid weather. Back in the day, all we had was grease, but now hair care companies make "humidity protection" and "anti-frizz" products that prevent reversion by covering your hair with a lightweight protective film. To prep your hair for straightening, shampoo, deep condition, apply a leave-in conditioner and then a styling cream or foam that promises to "block humidity" or keep your hair "frizz-free". Try Hair Rules Blow Out Your Kinks or Living Proof Straight Styling Cream.

Choose a "flexible" hold hair spray or skip it

A good hair spray can lock your hair in place better than any other product, but you don't want it to be too stiff or sticky. Choose a hair spray that says "flexible", "workable", or "natural" hold like Nexxus Comb Thru. Always spray from as far away as possible for the best results. To get the most days out of your straight hair, skip hair spray altogether.

Protect your hair from shower steam using a moisture-wicking headband and a shower cap

You'll definitely wear a shower cap in the shower, but your hair may still revert from the steam. Keep your hairline away from the water by putting on a moisture-wicking headband. The microfiber in the headband will absorb moisture and trap it between the threads of fabric. Put on the headband, then the shower cap, and keep your shower short.

Wrap or pin curl your hair at night and tie on a scarf

Your straight hair will last longer if your strands aren't allowed to rub up against each other while you sleep. If your roots usually revert quickly, take the time to pin curl your hair at night after applying a very small amount of moisturizer or serum to each section. Tie on a satin or silk scarf to keep your hair in place and your edges smooth. You can get away with less bedtime prep, but the better your hair is protected at night, the better it will look the next day.

Following these tips can make your straight hair last for weeks, but that's a long time to go without washing your hair. If your scalp starts to get itchy, it's begging to be shampooed and conditioned. You can buy yourself a few extra days by blotting excess oil from your scalp with an alcohol-free toner or a mixture of 1/8 cup aloe vera gel and 3 drops of tea tree oil. To keep your hair healthy with minimal breakage, it's best to shampoo and condition at least once a week