Black Hair Care

Comb by starting at the ends - Hair Tip of the Day

2012-09-18T23:36:52Z

Whether your hair is natural or relaxed, it is a good idea to comb your strands by starting at the ends and working your way up to the roots. If you start at the roots, you will cause your ends to wrap around each other, which can lead to more tangles.

4 Strategies to Make Your Straight Hair Last Longer - Learn

2012-09-16T01:29:25Z

Use products that promise humidity protection

The hair at your roots is usually the first to revert back to curly because it absorbs the most moisture whenever you sweat, take a hot shower, or go outside in humid weather. Back in the day, all we had was grease, but now hair care companies make "humidity protection" and "anti-frizz" products that prevent reversion by covering your hair with a lightweight protective film. Before you straighten your hair, prep it by shampooing, and deep conditioning. Then apply a leave-in conditioner and a styling cream or foam that promises to "block humidity" or keep your hair "frizz-free".

Choose a "flexible" hold hair spray or skip it

A good hair spray can lock your hair in place better than any other product, but you don't want it to be too stiff or sticky. Choose a hair spray that says "flexible", "workable", or "natural" hold like Nexxus Comb Thru. The best hair sprays contain alcohol denat., which is usually a no-no for ethnic hair. To avoid damage, hold the can 10 to 12 inches away as you spray, which allows the alcohol to evaporate before it hits your strands. To get the most days out of your straight hair as possible, skip hair spray altogether.

Protect your hair from shower steam using a moisture-wicking headband and a shower cap

You'll definitely wear a shower cap in the shower, but your hair may still revert from the steam. Keep your hairline away from the water by putting on a moisture-wicking headband like the ones sold by Nike and Under Armour. The microfiber in the headband will absorb moisture and trap it between the threads of fabric.

Wrap or pin curl your hair at night and tie on a scarf

Your straight hair will last longer if your strands aren't allowed to rub up against each other while you sleep. If your roots usually revert quickly, take the time to pin curl your hair at night after applying a very small amount of moisturizer or serum to each section. Tie on a satin or silk scarf to keep your hair in place and your edges smooth. You can get away with less bedtime prep, but the better your hair is protected at night, the better it will look the next day.

Following these tips can make your straight hair last for weeks, but that's a long time to go without washing your hair. If your scalp starts to get itchy, it is time to shampoo and condition. If you can't wash right away, blot the oil build up on your scalp with an alcohol-free toner. To keep your hair healthy with minimal breakage, it's best to shampoo and condition at least once a week.

The Truth About Hair Damage - Learn

2012-09-15T06:36:34Z

It's easy to talk about things that keep ethnic hair healthy like gentle handling and good conditioners, but if those were the only things that mattered, everyone's hair would be doing great. In reality, despite meticulous efforts to grow a long, thick head of hair, many women still struggle to maintain length and reach their other hair goals. To get past a length hurdle or stop persistent breakage you have to realize one important thing: Damage is unavoidable. If your hair isn't making progress that means it is being damaged faster than it can recover.

Whether your hair is natural or relaxed, combing and brushing is stressful for your strands and should be kept to a minimum.

Every time you move or touch your hair, the cuticle layers of each strand rub up against each other and cause tiny abrasions, similar to light scratches. Those little abrasions may not affect how your hair looks or feels but they are always there. If you pull your hair roughly and follow up with a comb or a brush, you've inflicted a lot of stress on your hair at one time. True, there are some women who can comb and brush their hair all day without a problem, but those women usually have thick straight or wavy hair.

"Damage prone" is really an understatement when describing African American and Multi-Ethnic hair.

No matter what your hair type, the longer your hair gets, the more dry and tangle prone it will be. Shoulder length hair is already about 3 years old, so any weaknesses in your hair care routine will begin to show, just like bad eating habits start to catch up with you as you get older. If you hit a plateau in your healthy hair journey, get at least ½ inch cut off by a professional to remove any split or severely damaged ends. Then start a consistent routine of shampooing and applying a reconstructing treatment every week or two.

Whatever you do, just don't make the mistake of thinking you've avoided damaging your hair. The only way to avoid damage is not to touch your hair as it grows out of your scalp, and we all know that's impossible. If you love your hair, you want to style it and use it to express yourself. There's nothing wrong with that! You wouldn't buy a beautiful new sweater and leave it on the shelf all the time. What fun would that be? Instead, you have to wear it lightly, wash it gently, and get small holes mended as soon as they appear.

Updated September 18 2012

Are shampoo bars a good choice for coils and curls? - Learn

2012-09-13T04:32:49Z

Q: I want to go sulfate-free and try shampoo bars, but I've seen mixed reviews. Will they work for my hair?

A: To answer this question, let's examine the ingredients list of two popular shampoo bars...

Shampoo Bar 1: purified water, glycerin, sodium stearate and sodium oleate, sorbitol, stearic acid, lauric acid, African black soap, cocoa butter, cetyl alcohol, coconut oil, lavender, tea tree and citrus essential oils

Shampoo Bar 2: purified water, saponified olive, coconut and safflower oils, jojoba oil, shikakai & amla herbs, apple cider vinegar and panthenol

The two shampoo bars are made with slightly different recipes, but the cleansing ingredient in both of them is soap. Scientifically speaking, the "sodium stearate and sodium oleate" in Shampoo Bar 1 are the same as the "saponified olive, coconut and safflower oils" in Shampoo Bar 2. The first bar lists the scientific name for soap, while the other used more laymen terms. Soap is made by mixing water, fat from an oil or butter, and lye (sodium hydroxide). In the "sodium oleate" listed in Shampoo Bar 1, the "sodium" comes from sodium hydroxide and the "oleate" means the fat used was from olive oil.

There are two major problems with using soap to wash your hair:

Problem #1: It is impossible to make a pH balanced soap bar. As we know, sodium hydroxide has a high pH and the resulting soap usually has a pH around 10. Skin and hair are made of keratin proteins and all types of protein are sensitive to pH. Our skin and hair can better maintain their natural strength when they are kept at acidic pH values between 4.5 and 6.5 during cleansing. An expert soap maker can make a soap bar as low as pH 8, but attempting to lower the pH below 8 will make the soap look more like a creamy liquid (not a solid bar anymore). Some hair types aren't affected by high pH, but coils and curls are more sensitive because of their naturally raised cuticles. Raised cuticles cause dry, tangle prone hair. A shampoo with a pH between 4.5 and 6.5 will cleanse your hair without causing more tangles.

Problem #2: Soap causes soap scum in hard water. When you use a shampoo bar in tap water that contains a lot of calcium, the calcium ions will attach to the saponified olive oil/sodium oleate and form scum that settles on your hair (and leaves stains in the tub). The calcium residue will make your hair more prone to tangles and knots. Hard tap water is common in Southern California, the Mid West, and Texas. If you have hard water, your hair will feel and look better if you avoid soap. Most shampoos contain natural chelating ingredients like Phytic Acid or Disodium EDTA that counteract the effects of hard water.

My recommendation is that you choose a shampoo made with more gentle cleansing ingredients like "Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate" , "Sodium Methyl Taurate" and "Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate". Those are sulfate-free detergents that are used in pH balanced shampoos. If you choose to wash your hair with a shampoo bar or any other soap, you can rinse off any calcium residue that may be on your hair at the end of your shower using 1 cup Apple Cider Vinegar mixed with 1 cup purified water.

Expert Stylist Q&A: Tonya Chaney, Mykal Grant Salon - Learn

2012-09-10T16:50:28Z

Tonya Chaney is the owner of Mykal Grant Salon in Denver, Colorado. She's been a licensed cosmetologist for 8 years. Tonya loves hair care and believes that inner beauty magnifies outer beauty. She wants to help you find both when you're sitting in her chair. In this Q&A, she explains some common relaxer pitfalls, the importance of clean hair, and more.

The About Us section of MykalGrant.com says, "To have and maintain a cut that enhances your sense of style, you must have healthy hair." Tell us what that means.

Many times a woman picks up a picture and wants that look for herself. The majority of the time she truly does not understand the type of hair that she has and the condition that it's in. It is my job to help her understand her own hair's capabilities, set her expectations, and get her to trust my expertise. Once that is complete, I am able to give her a cut that fits her and her lifestyle.

Some women feel that healthy hair and relaxers don't go together. What do you think?

That is not a true statement. If the relaxer is applied by a professional (which generally means they are using a professional system), the stylist is able to apply it correctly, make sure the pH level is brought down, and condition the hair correctly as well. Healthy hair is hair that has no breakage, no split ends, hair that is pliable, and holds a style.

Times are tough and women are trying to keep up their beauty regimen while saving money wherever they can. What is your advice to women who relax their own hair?

Make your hair a priority! Get it done professionally. If you can't make it to the salon, at least have someone else apply it. The other person will at least be able to see in order to prevent as much overlap as possible.

Chemical burns and dandruff are common problems for women who relax their hair. How can those problems be avoided?

Correct relaxer application is critical to a healthy scalp. If the scalp is based correctly, that will prevent much of the chemical burns. Proper water intake and a moisturized scalp will help prevent dandruff.

What is the biggest mistake that African American women make with their hair?

Many African American women do not wash their hair enough! And they use too much hair "grease". They believe the grease will moisturize their hair, when in fact, hair that is clean and conditioned will give them the shine they are looking for as well as the bounce too.

What do you define as "deep conditioning"?

A moisturizing conditioner applied to wet hair, covered with a plastic cap and wrapped with a hot towel. Let that sit for about 15 minutes, rinse and follow with styling.

What are your favorite products?

I love Design Essentials HCO Leave-In Conditioner and Design Essentials Compositions Foaming Wrap Lotion.

Anything else you want to tell Hair Liberty readers?

If you understand your hair's capabilities and love the hair the Lord gave you, your hair will amplify your beauty.

You can find Tonya at Mykal Grant Salon, (303) 477-1712. Follow her on Twitter @MykalGrantSalon.

Coils & Curls The Hair Product Handbook: Helping the Product Junkies of the world buy SMARTER, sort through marketing HYPE and save MONEY! - Featured Products

2012-08-11T17:01:25Z

Buy the Book

Best of the Web: How to Wrap Straight Hair - Do-It-Yourself

2012-07-26T21:20:30Z

Key Tip: Start wrapping from the top crown area for the smoothest results

Channel: Type F

Curls Curlicious Curls Cleansing Cream - Featured Products

2012-07-23T22:14:17Z

The best sulfate-free shampoos produce a little lather to help you avoid using too much product. Curls Curlicious Cleansing Cream is a sulfate-free cleanser that delivers a mild and moisturizing lather so you can gently shampoo your hair weekly or more often.

CURLS Goddess Curls - Featured Products

2012-07-23T04:33:44Z

CURLS Goddess Glaze is a strong hold gel that defines and moisturizes natural hair. Great for humid climates and light enough for fine strands.

Remember to protect your hair from the sun this summer - Hair Tip of the Day

2012-06-26T22:11:00Z

If your skin starts to tan or burn, it's time for you and your hair to come out of the sun. Wear a hat or scarf and take advantage of hairsprays that contain sun shielding ingredients (check the description on the back). Strands that have been over-exposed to the sun will get dry and brittle much quicker than hair that's been protected.

Recording: The Coils & Curls Webinar with Nicole Harmon - Learn

2012-06-26T19:59:00Z

How to Protect Your Hair While Swimming - Do-It-Yourself

2012-05-31T05:41:50Z

You don't have to limit your pool time for your hair, but you do have to take some extra precautions. Chlorinated water and constant friction from swimming will take a toll on coils and curls. Spend a few minutes before and after swimming to help your hair survive the summer.

Key Tips

If possible, rinse your hair with tap water before you get in the pool.
Don't wear a swim cap if it pulls too tightly or rips out your hair at the hairline.
Always shampoo after you swim, chlorine does not rinse out.

Step 1: If possible, rinse your hair in the shower before getting in the pool. If your hair is "filled up" with tap water it won't be able to absorb as much chlorinated pool water.

If your hair is "filled up" with tap water it won't be able to absorb as much chlorinated pool water. There's usually a shower right near the pool that you can use to rinse your hair before and after diving in.

Step 2: Apply a thorough coating of a hair serum to your dripping wet hair, paying special attention to the ends. The serum will help protect your hair from friction while your swim. Choose an inexpensive serum like John Frieda Frizz-Ease Original Serum, $7.50.

Step 3: (Optional) Put on a swim cap. Many swim caps are so tight that they pull your hair out when you take them on and off. Try a Speedo Silicone Swim Cap, $7.99. If a swim cap causes you to lose hair, don't use it. Just let your strands hang free instead.

Step 4: After you swim, rinse your hair with tap water again. It's best to wear a hat if you plan to stay in the sun after you exit the pool.

Step 5: Always shampoo your hair after you're done swimming for the day. It's important to use a shampoo that gets rid of chlorine and mineral build up. If your regular shampoo contains EDTA or Phytic Acid it will provide thorough enough cleansing. If your regular shampoo doesn't contain EDTA or Phytic Acid, buy UltraSwim Chlorine Removal Shampoo, $15.21 for a pack of 4 ($4.99 each MSRP) for pool days.

Step 6: Continue with your usual shampoo and condition routine. You must take the time to condition your hair every time you shampoo it, even if you swim every day.

Step 7: When you style your hair it would be best to avoid direct or high heat. Try to limit your use of heat to a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment or a bonnet dryer on low.

How to CoWash - Do-It-Yourself

2012-05-30T20:47:34Z

Cowashing means "washing" your hair with conditioner. It's a way to refresh your hair when you don't have time to do your full shampoo and condition routine.

Key Tips

Start by rinsing your hair with lukewarm water for about 3 minutes.
Co-washing is not effective enough to be your only method of cleansing. Use shampoo to cleanse your hair and scalp at least once a week.
If your scalp becomes flaky or itchy, co-washing is not right for your hair.

Step 1: Start by gently combing through your hair with your fingers so that it's free of knots and tangles. Apply a little conditioner or oil to areas that are difficult to comb.

Step 2: Once in the shower, rinse your hair with lukewarm water for 3-5 minutes. This long rinse will loosen up dirt and residue which is especially important since you won't be using shampoo.

Step 3: Apply a large amount of a cleansing conditioner or no-suds shampoo to your scalp and hair.Try As I Am Coconut CoWash, $8.00

Step 4: Gently massage your scalp and hair with the product. Pass your hair back under the water to make a creamy lather.

Step 5: Make sure you've added enough conditioner so that your hair is easy to comb. Use a wide tooth comb to thoroughly comb out your hair so that it's smooth and tangle-free. Rinse.

Step 6: If your scalp does not feel clean enough, repeat steps 3 and 4, then rinse again.

Step 7: Style your hair and allow it to air dry. You must avoid direct and high heat after you co-wash. There will still be product residue on your hair and it will cause your hair to burn from heat styling. Limit your use of heat to a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment or a bonnet dryer on low.

Updated March 17, 2012

Give your hair an extra dose of conditioning - Hair Tip of the Day

2012-05-25T20:51:38Z

To give your hair extra conditioning, apply coconut oil before you shampoo. The coconut oil will penetrate beneath the cuticle of your strands once you wet your hair. The oil will help your coils and curls absorb more conditioner and make them easier to detangle. Pre-shampoo oil treatments are a great thing to do before you flat iron your hair or just when you want to give it some extra love.

Coils and Curls: The Hair Product Handbook - Featured Products

2012-05-24T22:35:51Z

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