Step 1: Shampoo your hair at least once a week
The average person's hair grows between ¼ and ½ inch a month. Washing your hair more often can help you achieve the maximum amount. Your scalp is just like your face. You can't maintain a healthy environment without cleansing away the sebum (natural skin oil) in and around your hair follicles. Opt for a sulfate-free moisturizing shampoo that can gently cleanse and condition your hair and scalp at the same time. You can still co-wash, but don't forgo a weekly shampoo unless your co-wash product says it is made for cleaning the scalp. If you are nervous about shampooing your hair, start with a pre-shampoo oil treatment.
Step 2: Use a pH balanced shampoo
The pH of human hair is between 4.5 and 6.5. Ethnic hair, especially Type 4 coils, has naturally raised cuticles which make it more sensitive to pH than other hair types. A shampoo that is pH balanced will prevent excessive cuticle swelling when you wash your hair. That means your coils and curls will be easier to smooth out when you're ready to style. If your shampoo doesn't mention pH balance on the label, look for pH adjusters like "citric acid" or "sodium citrate" in the ingredients list.
Step 3: Make sure detangling is a breeze
The most important job of a conditioner is to make your hair easy to detangle. If you are avoiding chemical treatments and heat but you are still not seeing longer length, you may be losing precious strands in the shower. If you're using the right shampoo and conditioner for your hair, when you work from end to root, you should only have 2 or 3 areas where the comb gets snarled. For the easiest detangling experience, choose a rinse-out conditioner that contains 2 or more of the following ingredients in the top 5:
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Esters
Dimethicone
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Shea Oil
Stearamidopropyl Dimethlyamine
Step 4: Use a deep treatment at least once a month
Look at a strand of your hair. 80% of what you are looking at is keratin protein. Your body uses the protein you eat to create keratin protein for your hair and skin. You really are feeding your hair and skin whenever you eat eggs, meat, and certain vegetables. Adding more protein to your diet can strengthen the hair that's currently being "built", but once a hair emerges from its follicle, your health and what you eat don't affect its appearance anymore. Your hair is at your mercy and daily combing and styling chip away tiny pieces of keratin from each strand. It's up to you to replace those lost pieces with protein from hair products; otherwise your hair will break just as fast as it grows. To begin rehabilitating your hair ASAP, add a deep treatment that contains hydrolyzed protein to your regimen.
Step 5: Get a haircut if you are experiencing moderate to severe breakage
If you are experiencing significant breakage, it is likely that the cuticle layer has been worn away at your ends. That happens during chemical treatments, but also from over combing and brushing. Even the best products can't revive severely damaged hair, so you'll need to get a trim in order to see a real transformation. Choose a trusted stylist to take off ½ to 1 inch. After that, follow the rest of this regimen so you can give your hair time to grow a few inches before it needs to be trimmed again.
Step 6: Find 2 easy styles for your current length
The most difficult part about growing your hair out is the awkward length phases you'll have to go through. If you have a good cut, your hair should be relatively easy to work with. Keep your ends in the best condition possible by alternating between 2 low-manipulation hairstyles. For example, many women have shorter hair in the front than the back. Give the front some time to catch up by bobby pinning it out of the way instead of trying to make it blend with the rest of your hair. If you follow the other rehab steps, you will have new style options in 2-3 months as your hair grows longer. Check out the Hair Liberty DIY section to learn easy styles for any length using bobby pins, hair accessories and/or braids.
You can incorporate one rehab step at a time, but you'll see the most drastic improvements when you follow all six of these steps. Once you have a steady routine, don't change what you're doing. When you feel like trying something new, experiment with different styles and styling products. The way your hair looks is the result of your product choices and styling techniques. If you want to see a big improvement, it's time to make some big changes!
A little confused, should I use a moisturizing conditioner while detangling and then a protein rinse out conditioner too?
Where does the leave in conditioner come in?
Hi Kcurls,
Protein conditioners like the ones recommended do a good job with detangling so you shouldn't need to use 2 separate conditioners. But, if you end up with a protein conditioner that doesn't have enough slip, detangle with a different conditioner, then apply the protein product. Apply the leave-in conditioner after you get out of the shower before you style your hair. I hope that helps! Sorry for the delayed response. The Comments issue is fixed now. :)
Hi Nicole,
I'm interested in your comments about protein overload. I've been using Giovanni's Smooth As Silk Deeper Moisture conditioner, which I love because it is moisturizing and has amazing slip. However, it has vegetable protein (soybean seed extract) as the 4th ingredient. At my last haircut, my stylist remarked that my hair was not absorbing the water/conditioner as much as she expected. I also had noticed that my hair was not holding moisture; no matter how many moisturizing products I use, they seem to evaporate quickly.
The stylist said I most likely had protein overload and that I should stop using the Giovanni conditioner. Now I am frustrated because I can't find a product that has similar properties. I also use Aubrey Organics HSR, but only as a deep conditioner.
Could my stylist be right? In your opinion, what else might be preventing my hair from absorbing moisture?
thank you,
Fatin
Hi Nicole,
I'm interested in your comments on "protein overload." My hair seems to have a hard time absorbing moisture, staying moisturized; products evaporate quickly, hair dries very quickly after getting wet, conditioner seems to just sit on top instead of penetrating. A stylist suggested I might have protein overload as I have been using Giovanni's Smooth As Silk Deeper Moisture conditioner religiously for about 6 months (high concentration of soy protein, 4th ingredient).
Does protein overload exist? If not, what do you think is going on with my hair? I definitely have noticed a change.
thanks,
Fatin
Hey Fatin,
Hair that dries quickly and has trouble staying moisturized is porous. That's exactly why porous hair is constantly dry and breakage prone. That's the opposite of protein overload. Your hair definitely needs protein. I know that sounds completely wrong, but I'll explain. The ingredient listed as "soy protein" in Giovanni Smooth as Silk is not the kind of protein that can benefit your hair. What you need is “hydrolyzed soy protein” which is different. That one word, "hydrolyzed", doesn't seem like it should make a big difference but it does. The important thing to understand is that "soy protein" doesn't attach to your hair. It just rinses away when you rinse the conditioner out. “Hydrolyzed soy protein” has been formulated to stay on your hair through the final rinse and keep it moisturized between washes. So "soy protein" may be a good ingredient for a leave-in (or body lotion), but it's not as helpful in a rinse out conditioner. Each company comes up with their own recipes for their products. Some recipes are effective for curly-kinky hair, others are not. I can't tell you why Giovanni chose to use “soy protein” in their rinse out conditioner. All we know is that it didn't help your hair retain moisture.
That little distinction is exactly why the protein overload myth exists. Giovanni Smooth as Silk doesn't contain hydrolyzed protein so it wouldn't be a good idea to avoid all protein because of your experience with that conditioner. In order to strengthen your hair and get its porosity under control, you'll need a conditioner that contains hydrolyzed protein which can be from soy, but also from silk, oats, wheat, quinoa...there's a long list. Ouidad Deep Treat contains hydrolyzed wheat protein. The other conditioners in the Rehab article contain "hydrolyzed keratin" which could also be called "hydrolyzed wool/sheep's hair". Studies show hydrolyzed keratin to be most effective for damaged hair. If you prefer only natural brands, I suggest EO Products Repair Deep Conditioner. It contains hydrolyzed quinoa protein around the middle of the list. I hope that helps!
Hi Nicole,
Thanks so much for the info about protein; I'll definitely make sure I look for the word "hydrolyzed." However, I gave you some incorrect information about the Giovanni Smooth As Silk. It does actually contain hydrolyzed soy protein as the 20th of 21 ingredients. (Perhaps the concentration is too low to make much of a difference?) I think I was confusing that with soybean seed extract which is much higher on the list and which I assumed was also a protein (is it?).
I was hoping for your insight into how my hair could've become this way; because it was not always like this. Could something as simple as not moisturizing the hair enough cause it to become more porous? Or perhaps I am using the wrong ingredients?
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks!
--Fatin
Hi Fatin, Yes, 20th of 21 ingredients is too low. Remember to think about your hair's response to the conditioner. Its porosity lets you know that it still needs more protein despite using Smooth As Silk. That's what tells you the conditioner's protein concentration is too low for you. "Soybean seed extract" is synonymous with "soy protein" neither is the same as "hydrolyzed soy protein".
To answer your final question, yes, something as simple as not moisturizing the hair enough can cause it to become more porous. Every day that you wash, comb, or heat style your hair it becomes a little bit more damaged. Other hair types may be able to stand everyday wear and tear without becoming more porous, but curly-kinky hair is different. Good ingredients like the ones we've talked about address the damage as it happens. If you've been heat styling your hair more than once a week or putting heat on dirty hair those practices will have to stop in order for your hair to improve. If you haven't been doing those things, the damage has come from combing or brushing and sub-par products. Please read More Hair, More Problems for an even longer explanation :) Don't hesitate to ask more questions, I'm sure you're not the only one thinking about these things.
Nicole, Thanks again for the information. I have been natural for 17 years and I have always wondered why my hair has never been able to get past chin/shoulder length. I don't color my hair and I only flat iron it 1-2 times per year, yet the ends still get dry and rough (my twists/braids feel different and won't twist down to the end) I never thought my hair was particularly fragile or that I was that rough on with it, but the problem has got to be too much manipulation and the wrong products (not enough moisture or the right kinds of protein).
I also appreciate the work you do to educate us on our hair despite often going against popular opinion. I've been on a natural products regimen for a while for various reasons, but to be perfectly honest, my hair was longer and felt stronger when I was using synthetic ingredients like Infusium 23 and regular shampoo!
For me the key will be to pay close attention to a product's ingredients, do my homework on what those ingredients are supposed to do and make a decision based on what makes *my* hair look and feel its best despite what may be popular in natural hair circles.
Sorry, I just remembered my other question: besides the obvious, is there any difference between the rinse-out hair reconstructors you mention in the article and spray-on products like Aveda Brilliant Damage Control or Aphogee Keratin and Green Tea Restructurizer? I'm trying to save money and I have two almost full bottles of these products. Just wondering what the benefits of the rinse outs are and what I should change if I choose to use a spray. Thanks!
Thank you, Fatin! I really appreciate that. Infusium 23 isn't a bad choice at all. I think we've all used it at one time or another. Yes, you can definitely get the same benefits from a spray that you would get from a rinse out. But, it's important to apply the spray just as thoroughly as you would a rinse out conditioner. It's easier to saturate your hair in the shower from root to tip than to spray small sections from root to tip after you get out. You can do it though, just be patient and focus on the most damaged areas first.
Hey, I'm a little fuzzy on terminology. Are all of the "reconstructing treatments" in the boutique the same as "protein conditioners" for step #4?
Hi Nikki, Sorry for the confusion. No, a protein conditioner isn't the same as a "reconstructng treatment" Reconstructing treatments are usually more concentrated and meant to be used only 1 or twice a month. A good protein conditioner can be used to soften and strengthen the hair after every shampoo. You can find them in the "Conditioners for Distressed Hair" section of the boutique. Thanks for asking :)
i like to try to just wash my hair every 2-4 days, but i don't really know what to do inbetween washes. i have plenty of leave-in conditioners but i just put those on after i've washed my hair. what exactly should i do the next day? i watched one youtube video where the vlogger spritzes her hair with water from a spray bottle every morning and night. i don't know if i should do that, or if i should, what to do inbetween spritzes. some help would be appreciated! thank you :)
Hi Anon, between washes you'll choose the products you apply based on what style you want to achieve. If you're doing an updo and you want your hair to be smooth and controlled, your leave-in conditioner will help you achieve that. You'll only need to use about half as much as you would use after a fresh wash. If you're wearing your hair down and you want your coils to look fluffy and full, a spritz is the better way to go. Pure aloe vera juice works well, but now there are lots of good "curl reviving sprays" to choose from. You have a great wash schedule which means you don't have to worry about constantly moisturizing between washes. Many women who spritz their hair twice a day, every day are doing that because they only wash their hair once a week or less. Thanks for your comment. Let me know if you have anymore questions.