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4 Strategies to Make Your Straight Hair Last Longer

2012-09-16T01:29:25Z

Use products that promise humidity protection

The hair at your roots is usually the first to revert back to curly because it absorbs the most moisture whenever you sweat, take a hot shower, or go outside in humid weather. Back in the day, all we had was grease, but now hair care companies make "humidity protection" and "anti-frizz" products that prevent reversion by covering your hair with a lightweight protective film. Before you straighten your hair, prep it by shampooing, and deep conditioning. Then apply a leave-in conditioner and a styling cream or foam that promises to "block humidity" or keep your hair "frizz-free".

Choose a "flexible" hold hair spray or skip it

A good hair spray can lock your hair in place better than any other product, but you don't want it to be too stiff or sticky. Choose a hair spray that says "flexible", "workable", or "natural" hold like Nexxus Comb Thru. The best hair sprays contain alcohol denat., which is usually a no-no for ethnic hair. To avoid damage, hold the can 10 to 12 inches away as you spray, which allows the alcohol to evaporate before it hits your strands. To get the most days out of your straight hair as possible, skip hair spray altogether.

Protect your hair from shower steam using a moisture-wicking headband and a shower cap

You'll definitely wear a shower cap in the shower, but your hair may still revert from the steam. Keep your hairline away from the water by putting on a moisture-wicking headband like the ones sold by Nike and Under Armour. The microfiber in the headband will absorb moisture and trap it between the threads of fabric.

Wrap or pin curl your hair at night and tie on a scarf

Your straight hair will last longer if your strands aren't allowed to rub up against each other while you sleep. If your roots usually revert quickly, take the time to pin curl your hair at night after applying a very small amount of moisturizer or serum to each section. Tie on a satin or silk scarf to keep your hair in place and your edges smooth. You can get away with less bedtime prep, but the better your hair is protected at night, the better it will look the next day.

Following these tips can make your straight hair last for weeks, but that's a long time to go without washing your hair. If your scalp starts to get itchy, it is time to shampoo and condition. If you can't wash right away, blot the oil build up on your scalp with an alcohol-free toner. To keep your hair healthy with minimal breakage, it's best to shampoo and condition at least once a week.

The Truth About Hair Damage

2012-09-15T06:36:34Z

It's easy to talk about things that keep ethnic hair healthy like gentle handling and good conditioners, but if those were the only things that mattered, everyone's hair would be doing great. In reality, despite meticulous efforts to grow a long, thick head of hair, many women still struggle to maintain length and reach their other hair goals. To get past a length hurdle or stop persistent breakage you have to realize one important thing: Damage is unavoidable. If your hair isn't making progress that means it is being damaged faster than it can recover.

Whether your hair is natural or relaxed, combing and brushing is stressful for your strands and should be kept to a minimum.

Every time you move or touch your hair, the cuticle layers of each strand rub up against each other and cause tiny abrasions, similar to light scratches. Those little abrasions may not affect how your hair looks or feels but they are always there. If you pull your hair roughly and follow up with a comb or a brush, you've inflicted a lot of stress on your hair at one time. True, there are some women who can comb and brush their hair all day without a problem, but those women usually have thick straight or wavy hair.

"Damage prone" is really an understatement when describing African American and Multi-Ethnic hair.

No matter what your hair type, the longer your hair gets, the more dry and tangle prone it will be. Shoulder length hair is already about 3 years old, so any weaknesses in your hair care routine will begin to show, just like bad eating habits start to catch up with you as you get older. If you hit a plateau in your healthy hair journey, get at least ½ inch cut off by a professional to remove any split or severely damaged ends. Then start a consistent routine of shampooing and applying a reconstructing treatment every week or two.

Whatever you do, just don't make the mistake of thinking you've avoided damaging your hair. The only way to avoid damage is not to touch your hair as it grows out of your scalp, and we all know that's impossible. If you love your hair, you want to style it and use it to express yourself. There's nothing wrong with that! You wouldn't buy a beautiful new sweater and leave it on the shelf all the time. What fun would that be? Instead, you have to wear it lightly, wash it gently, and get small holes mended as soon as they appear.

Updated September 18 2012

Are shampoo bars a good choice for coils and curls?

2012-09-13T04:32:49Z

Q: I want to go sulfate-free and try shampoo bars, but I've seen mixed reviews. Will they work for my hair?

A: To answer this question, let's examine the ingredients list of two popular shampoo bars...

Shampoo Bar 1: purified water, glycerin, sodium stearate and sodium oleate, sorbitol, stearic acid, lauric acid, African black soap, cocoa butter, cetyl alcohol, coconut oil, lavender, tea tree and citrus essential oils

Shampoo Bar 2: purified water, saponified olive, coconut and safflower oils, jojoba oil, shikakai & amla herbs, apple cider vinegar and panthenol

The two shampoo bars are made with slightly different recipes, but the cleansing ingredient in both of them is soap. Scientifically speaking, the "sodium stearate and sodium oleate" in Shampoo Bar 1 are the same as the "saponified olive, coconut and safflower oils" in Shampoo Bar 2. The first bar lists the scientific name for soap, while the other used more laymen terms. Soap is made by mixing water, fat from an oil or butter, and lye (sodium hydroxide). In the "sodium oleate" listed in Shampoo Bar 1, the "sodium" comes from sodium hydroxide and the "oleate" means the fat used was from olive oil.

There are two major problems with using soap to wash your hair:

Problem #1: It is impossible to make a pH balanced soap bar. As we know, sodium hydroxide has a high pH and the resulting soap usually has a pH around 10. Skin and hair are made of keratin proteins and all types of protein are sensitive to pH. Our skin and hair can better maintain their natural strength when they are kept at acidic pH values between 4.5 and 6.5 during cleansing. An expert soap maker can make a soap bar as low as pH 8, but attempting to lower the pH below 8 will make the soap look more like a creamy liquid (not a solid bar anymore). Some hair types aren't affected by high pH, but coils and curls are more sensitive because of their naturally raised cuticles. Raised cuticles cause dry, tangle prone hair. A shampoo with a pH between 4.5 and 6.5 will cleanse your hair without causing more tangles.

Problem #2: Soap causes soap scum in hard water. When you use a shampoo bar in tap water that contains a lot of calcium, the calcium ions will attach to the saponified olive oil/sodium oleate and form scum that settles on your hair (and leaves stains in the tub). The calcium residue will make your hair more prone to tangles and knots. Hard tap water is common in Southern California, the Mid West, and Texas. If you have hard water, your hair will feel and look better if you avoid soap. Most shampoos contain natural chelating ingredients like Phytic Acid or Disodium EDTA that counteract the effects of hard water.

My recommendation is that you choose a shampoo made with more gentle cleansing ingredients like "Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate" , "Sodium Methyl Taurate" and "Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate". Those are sulfate-free detergents that are used in pH balanced shampoos. If you choose to wash your hair with a shampoo bar or any other soap, you can rinse off any calcium residue that may be on your hair at the end of your shower using 1 cup Apple Cider Vinegar mixed with 1 cup purified water.

Expert Stylist Q&A: Tonya Chaney, Mykal Grant Salon

2012-09-10T16:50:28Z

Tonya Chaney is the owner of Mykal Grant Salon in Denver, Colorado. She's been a licensed cosmetologist for 8 years. Tonya loves hair care and believes that inner beauty magnifies outer beauty. She wants to help you find both when you're sitting in her chair. In this Q&A, she explains some common relaxer pitfalls, the importance of clean hair, and more.

The About Us section of MykalGrant.com says, "To have and maintain a cut that enhances your sense of style, you must have healthy hair." Tell us what that means.

Many times a woman picks up a picture and wants that look for herself. The majority of the time she truly does not understand the type of hair that she has and the condition that it's in. It is my job to help her understand her own hair's capabilities, set her expectations, and get her to trust my expertise. Once that is complete, I am able to give her a cut that fits her and her lifestyle.

Some women feel that healthy hair and relaxers don't go together. What do you think?

That is not a true statement. If the relaxer is applied by a professional (which generally means they are using a professional system), the stylist is able to apply it correctly, make sure the pH level is brought down, and condition the hair correctly as well. Healthy hair is hair that has no breakage, no split ends, hair that is pliable, and holds a style.

Times are tough and women are trying to keep up their beauty regimen while saving money wherever they can. What is your advice to women who relax their own hair?

Make your hair a priority! Get it done professionally. If you can't make it to the salon, at least have someone else apply it. The other person will at least be able to see in order to prevent as much overlap as possible.

Chemical burns and dandruff are common problems for women who relax their hair. How can those problems be avoided?

Correct relaxer application is critical to a healthy scalp. If the scalp is based correctly, that will prevent much of the chemical burns. Proper water intake and a moisturized scalp will help prevent dandruff.

What is the biggest mistake that African American women make with their hair?

Many African American women do not wash their hair enough! And they use too much hair "grease". They believe the grease will moisturize their hair, when in fact, hair that is clean and conditioned will give them the shine they are looking for as well as the bounce too.

What do you define as "deep conditioning"?

A moisturizing conditioner applied to wet hair, covered with a plastic cap and wrapped with a hot towel. Let that sit for about 15 minutes, rinse and follow with styling.

What are your favorite products?

I love Design Essentials HCO Leave-In Conditioner and Design Essentials Compositions Foaming Wrap Lotion.

Anything else you want to tell Hair Liberty readers?

If you understand your hair's capabilities and love the hair the Lord gave you, your hair will amplify your beauty.

You can find Tonya at Mykal Grant Salon, (303) 477-1712. Follow her on Twitter @MykalGrantSalon.

Recording: The Coils & Curls Webinar with Nicole Harmon

2012-06-26T19:59:00Z

As Featured on Essence

2012-01-13T19:16:46Z

Have you ever wondered if your hair products could be doing more harm than good? Worry no more. Hair Liberty's Nicole Harmon decodes the best and worst product ingredients for natural hair. Check out the Essence feature HERE

Deep Conditioning: Frequently Asked Questions

2011-12-05T03:24:11Z

What is deep conditioning?

The goal of deep conditioning is to strengthen dry hair and prevent breakage. To deep condition effectively, you need a conditioner that contains ingredients that are proven to patch or absorb into the hair strand. Examples of penetrating ingredients include coconut oil, hydrolyzed protein, amino acids, cetrimonium bromide, panthenol and some silicones.

Does deep conditioning require heat?

No. It's a common myth that deep conditioning requires heat. If a conditioner works with heat, the instructions will tell you to apply heat for a specific amount of time. Heat will only increase the effect of a conditioner if it has been formulated with heat-sensitive ingredients. Conditioners that require heat don't work better than conditioners that tell you to apply and rinse after a few minutes. It all depends on the ingredients.

I like sitting under the dryer. Is there any harm?

Yes. Sitting under a bonnet dryer for long periods of time with conditioner in your hair can cause harm. The instructions on your conditioner tell you the safest way to use the product. Studies show that preservatives and other chemicals in cosmetic products can cause eczema and a type of alopecia called telogen effluvium.

We're used to thinking of eczema as a skin condition that runs in families, but frequent exposure to cosmetic chemicals can cause a type of eczema called "acute contact dermatitis". Symptoms of acute contact dermatitis include itching, bumps, tenderness, and dry patches. Studies show that acute contact dermatitis on the scalp leads to a form of short-term alopecia called telogen effluvium. The condition causes excess hair shedding for up to 6 months.

When you leave a conditioner on longer than instructed, you may be increasing your exposure to cosmetic chemicals that have been linked to eczema, alopecia, and more serious health problems like cancer.

Can I sit under the dryer if I only use natural/organic products?

It will always be safest to follow the instructions on your conditioner. Just because a product is labeled "natural" or "organic" doesn't mean it is safer than anything else. Some natural ingredients cause more allergy problems than synthetic ingredients. There are also loopholes in FDA guidelines that allow manufacturers to omit ingredients from the label. The manufacturer is the only one who knows exactly what is in the container and they will provide instructions to help you use their products safely and effectively.

I think I have contact dermatitis on my scalp and excess shedding. What should I do?

1) Make a decision today to follow the instructions on your products. Don't leave in rinse-off products and don't let rinse-off products sit on your scalp for longer than instructed.

2) Visit a Dermatologist or Trichologist for a scalp evaluation if possible.

3) Don't scratch your scalp when it itches. Micro-cuts on the scalp can lead to bacterial infections.

4) Be patient. Itching, bumps, and the other symptoms of acute contact dermatitis usually go away within 4 weeks. Excess shedding due to telogen effluvium should stop within 6 months.

Updated September 18, 2012

The Ultimate Regimen: 6 Steps to Rehabilitate Your Hair

2011-09-02T06:15:44Z

Step 1: Shampoo your hair at least once a week

The average person's hair grows between ¼ and ½ inch a month. Washing your hair more often can help you achieve the maximum amount. Your scalp is just like your face. You can't maintain a healthy environment without cleansing away the sebum (natural skin oil) in and around your hair follicles. Opt for a sulfate-free moisturizing shampoo that can gently cleanse and condition your hair and scalp at the same time. You can still co-wash, but don't forgo a weekly shampoo unless your co-wash product says it is made for cleaning the scalp. If you are nervous about shampooing your hair, start with a pre-shampoo oil treatment.

Step 2: Use a pH balanced shampoo

The pH of human hair is between 4.5 and 6.5. Ethnic hair, especially Type 4 coils, has naturally raised cuticles which make it more sensitive to pH than other hair types. A shampoo that is pH balanced will prevent excessive cuticle swelling when you wash your hair. That means your coils and curls will be easier to smooth out when you're ready to style. If your shampoo doesn't mention pH balance on the label, look for pH adjusters like "citric acid" or "sodium citrate" in the ingredients list.

Step 3: Make sure detangling is a breeze

The most important job of a conditioner is to make your hair easy to detangle. If you are avoiding chemical treatments and heat but you are still not seeing longer length, you may be losing precious strands in the shower. If you're using the right shampoo and conditioner for your hair, when you work from end to root, you should only have 2 or 3 areas where the comb gets snarled. For the easiest detangling experience, choose a rinse-out conditioner that contains 2 or more of the following ingredients in the top 5:

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Esters

Dimethicone

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Shea Oil

Stearamidopropyl Dimethlyamine

Step 4: Use a deep treatment at least once a month

Look at a strand of your hair. 80% of what you are looking at is keratin protein. Your body uses the protein you eat to create keratin protein for your hair and skin. You really are feeding your hair and skin whenever you eat eggs, meat, and certain vegetables. Adding more protein to your diet can strengthen the hair that's currently being "built", but once a hair emerges from its follicle, your health and what you eat don't affect its appearance anymore. Your hair is at your mercy and daily combing and styling chip away tiny pieces of keratin from each strand. It's up to you to replace those lost pieces with protein from hair products; otherwise your hair will break just as fast as it grows. To begin rehabilitating your hair ASAP, add a deep treatment that contains hydrolyzed protein to your regimen.

Step 5: Get a haircut if you are experiencing moderate to severe breakage

If you are experiencing significant breakage, it is likely that the cuticle layer has been worn away at your ends. That happens during chemical treatments, but also from over combing and brushing. Even the best products can't revive severely damaged hair, so you'll need to get a trim in order to see a real transformation. Choose a trusted stylist to take off ½ to 1 inch. After that, follow the rest of this regimen so you can give your hair time to grow a few inches before it needs to be trimmed again.

Step 6: Find 2 easy styles for your current length

The most difficult part about growing your hair out is the awkward length phases you'll have to go through. If you have a good cut, your hair should be relatively easy to work with. Keep your ends in the best condition possible by alternating between 2 low-manipulation hairstyles. For example, many women have shorter hair in the front than the back. Give the front some time to catch up by bobby pinning it out of the way instead of trying to make it blend with the rest of your hair. If you follow the other rehab steps, you will have new style options in 2-3 months as your hair grows longer. Check out the Hair Liberty DIY section to learn easy styles for any length using bobby pins, hair accessories and/or braids.

You can incorporate one rehab step at a time, but you'll see the most drastic improvements when you follow all six of these steps. Once you have a steady routine, don't change what you're doing. When you feel like trying something new, experiment with different styles and styling products. The way your hair looks is the result of your product choices and styling techniques. If you want to see a big improvement, it's time to make some big changes!

Frizz Fighting Products that Really Work

2011-06-30T00:49:01Z

There are times when you need your hair to look like perfection. Maybe you have an exciting date or a big meeting at work. You take the time to put every strand in its proper place, but within minutes of going outside, the best twist out or the most polished blow out turns into an undefined mess. That's because humidity in the environment brings excess moisture to your hair. The humidity may be from rain, or because you live in Texas or Florida, or because you're sweatin out your hurr in a hot club. Wherever the excess moisture comes from, it's usually not enough to make your hair look wet, just enough to swell your strands and make your hair poof out. So frustrating!

The strategies for fighting frizz are more about product than technique. To protect your hair from humidity, you have to reinforce your strands with the right products. Here are the must haves:

Frizz Fighter #1: A protein conditioner/treatment

Rinse out products that contain hydrolyzed protein temporarily patch up some of the cuticle holes in porous hair. If ethnic hair doesn't get additional protein regularly, it will frizz out very quickly no matter what you do. Make sure to use a strengthening product at least once every 2 weeks. Salon-quality protein conditioners will leave your hair smooth and strong, not stiff.

Product recommendations

Age Beautiful Strengthening Treatment, $10

Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque, $22

Nexxus Emergencee Strengthening Polymeric Reconstructor, $14.99

Ouidad 12 Minute Deep Treatment, $25

Frizz Fighter #2: A polyquaternium styling product with hold (for natural or texturized coils and curls)

Usually products with "hold" leave natural hair sticky or crunchy and of course that's not good. Natural African American curls do best with mousses and gels made with holding ingredients called polyquaterniums. If you prefer all natural products that might sound like an ingredient category to avoid, but chances are you've used them before. Polyquaterniums are found in lotions, creams, shampoos, conditioners, mousses, and gels. They condition the hair by wrapping each strand in a protective film that leaves it soft, shiny, and easier to comb. There are many different types of polyquats, each with a different number. A good holding product for natural hair contains polyquaternium 4 and/or polyquaternium 11. Those specific polyquaterniums are excellent at keeping humidity from ruining your style.

Polyquaternium products should not be sticky, but they can make your hair feel crunchy when it dries. Don't worry, you can get rid of that stiffness if you "scrunch out the crunch". Here's how you do it: Once your hair is dry, apply a small dab of oil or a silicone serum to your palms and gather your hair like you're about to put it in a ponytail. As you run your hands over your strands, you'll loosen up the top layer of the styling product so that your hair can be fluffy and have more movement. Keep scrunching and smoothing until your hair is soft but still defined. It takes less than a minute to "scrunch out the crunch", but it makes the difference between soft and stiff hair. And more importantly, your wash n' go or twist out should be able to last through an important event or long day.

Product recommendations

Curls Gel-les'c Curl Serum/Gel, $25

Motions Light Styling Foam, $4.49

Nexxus Gorgeous Curls Curl Enhancing Foam Styler, $11.99

Pantene Curly Hair Series Curl Defining Mousse, $4.99

Frizz Fighter #3: Hairspray

Hairspray is the original humidity blocker. As long as you hold the bottle the instructed 12 inches away (basically as far away as you can), you'll cover your hair with extra strong humidity protection. The major problem with hairspray is that it causes your strands to stick together. When using hairspray to protect your style, be disciplined and don't touch your hair after it's done. Running your fingers through hairsprayed hair will cause breakage. Therefore, you should only use hairspray when you need extra assurance that your hair will hold up (first day at work, weddings, promotional events, etc.). Also, unlike polyquaternium products, hairspray doesn't rinse out. You have to shampoo it out, so only use hairspray if you can wash your hair within the following 2 days.

Product recommendations

L'Oreal Elnett Satin Hairspray, $14.99

Nexxus Comb Thru Natural Hold Design and Finishing Mist, $10.99

Sebastian Shaper Plus Hairspray, $15.95

Tresemme Tres Two Extra Hold Hairspray, $4.99

Frizz Fighter #4: Living Proof Products

Living Proof is a company started in 2008 by a group of expert scientists who decided to create "high-tech" hair products. The active ingredient in the products, PolyfluoroEster, is designed to reinforce the cuticle layer of your hair to lock in moisture, while blocking excess humidity from the weather. Living Proof products can actually deliver amazing results as long as you follow the instructions and use enough to thoroughly coat your hair. Unfortunately, the products are expensive (a 2 oz sample costs $15) and you may need to use a lot to get the intended results. Because of the price, they're not a great solution for everyday, but think of Living Proof products as your secret weapon.

Product recommendations (for all hair types)

No Frizz Nourishing Styling Cream, $26

Restore Targeted Repair Cream, $28

Straight Styling Hairspray, $29

Updated September 18 2012

Ethnic Hair 101

2011-06-15T23:26:41Z

It's no secret that ethnic hair seems completely different from the hair of other ethnicities. As Chris Rock's documentary, Good Hair, highlighted for the world, black women spend enormous amounts of time and money to maintain their hair. But why?? In most cases, the answer is not vanity. Ethnic hair requires special products and techniques for these 3 reasons:

Reason 1: Kinks, coils, and curls

Doctors and cosmetic scientists have studied ethnic hair in depth over the past decade. They have found that natural hair of "African descent" is special because it is uniquely kinky and fragile. It's not "nappy", it's extremely curly and coily. Any type of curly hair experiences dryness because natural oil from the scalp can't travel down the hair shaft to keep it moisturized. There are just too many "bumps in the road". The kinks on each strand make ethnic hair drier than other hair types.

Reason 2: Curly and coily hair is fragile.

Hair is made up of keratin (the same type of protein found in your skin). Naturally curly hair with no chemical treatments and no heat-related damage is relatively strong, but still weaker than straight hair. The kinks in each curl make the hair porous and prone to damage. Once you start washing, drying, combing, relaxing, coloring, and heating curly hair, it starts to get very weak, very quickly. Hair that is weak eventually splits or breaks off instead of reaching its longest length. The damage accumulates with every process and because ethnic hair is dry and fragile by nature, it starts breaking as quickly as it grows. An inch gained at the root plus an inch lost at the end, perpetually keeps damaged hair the same length.

Reason 3: "Extremely Curly" to "Perfectly Straight" is not easy.

It's been a long time since the Cosby women were on primetime showcasing the beauty of natural hair. Since the mid '90s, straight hairstyles have dominated African American culture and entertainment. Unfortunately, many black women achieve that "perfectly straight" look by using relaxers and extreme heat (over 350°F). That combination would lead to damage for any hair type, but it is especially tough on black hair. Feel free to embrace whatever style makes you feel beautiful. Just remember that your hair requires high-quality products and gentle care at all times.

Synthetic Oils to Combat Dry Hair

2011-05-03T06:11:46Z

Compared to other hair types, coils and curls are particularly fragile. That's because all types of curly hair are dry due to the bend in each curl. The area where the curl bends has less protective layers which means it is porous and can't hold on to moisture well. More kinks in a strand means more issues with dryness and breakage. With that in mind, the #1 goal of a good regimen for ethnic hair is to keep the hair moisturized and therefore minimize breakage.

To prevent breakage between washes, you'll need products that help seal moisture in.

When you apply a sealant to moisturized skin or hair, the moisture can stay in for a few hours, instead of quickly evaporating away. If you don't apply an effective sealant, the skin or hair will become overly dry within hours and you'll need to re-apply moisture over and over again. Many African American women with natural hair choose plant-based oils like coconut oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter. Those natural substances have many proven benefits for the hair, but they actually don't make the best sealants.

For many years, the best personal care sealant available was mineral oil, a byproduct of petroleum. In scientific studies, mineral oil was shown to provide a better seal or protective layer than other oils. Since African American hair is known to be porous, mineral oil and petrolatum began to appear in most ethnic hair care products. Even though the products created back then were very simple, they provided two crucial elements: water for moisture and mineral oil as a highly effective sealant (and pretty good heat protectant too).

Fast forward a few decades and moisturized hair is not enough. African American and Multi-Ethnic women want their hair to be soft, but not greasy - and strong, but not stiff. Customers also want their hair to be easy to comb, even if it hasn't been washed in days and thermal protection for flat irons that get as hot as 450°F. There is no natural oil that can meet all of those demands which explains why hair care companies began using silicones.

Synthetic oils protect your hair from heat and combing without leaving it greasy

Silicones are synthetic oils. They are made in science labs for use in hair care, pharmaceuticals, food, and hundreds of other products. The first popular silicone, dimethicone, has been used in skin creams and lotions since the 1950s. About 20 years ago, the cosmetic industry realized that dimethicone would be useful in hair products. In studies, dimethicone was found to condition the hair better than mineral oil.

Despite the proven advantages of silicones, some women make a big effort to avoid them. They are often choosing to follow the hair care method promoted by Lorraine Massey in her 2001 instructional book for curly-haired women, Curly Girl: The Handbook. Regarding silicones, Massey wrote: "I suggest that you avoid conditioners that use silicones. Although they do add temporary shine to the hair, I find they weigh down curly hair. (That means avoid using products with ingredients whose name end in -cone.) The ingredients you absolutely need in conditioner include emollients, humectants, proteins, and moisturizers."

Four years later, in a Q&A featured on NaturallyCurly.com, Massey admitted that her original book was written before she ever heard of more sophisticated silicones like amodimethicone. Unfortunately, misinformation had already spread across the Internet and to this day, silicones are wrongly blamed for drying out the hair due to build up when in reality the opposite is true.

Any oil, natural or synthetic, can build up on the hair, but you can easily avoid build up by cleaning your hair with shampoo. If you feel like shampoo is damaging, that's a sign that your shampoo needs an upgrade. Always choose a shampoo that says "dry", "damaged", "fragile", and/or "chemically-treated" hair on the label. A good shampoo gently removes build up from your hair.and conditions your strands at the same time. For more about how to choose the best shampoo for your hair, check out Coils & Curls The Hair Product Handbook: Helping the Product Junkies of the world buy SMARTER, sort through marketing HYPE and save MONEY! by Nicole Harmon.

Help your hair stay moisturized by applying a shine or smoothing serum to finish your style

Silicones, especially dimethicone, are in many parts of our lives. You can find them in "oil-free" lotions, deodorants, skin medications, and even Chicken McNuggets. The reason thousands of hair products contain synthetic oils instead of natural oils is because they work extremely well to condition, soften, and seal the hair without weighing it down. It can't hurt to add a serum as a final step after you style your hair. Although, more women are becoming educated, you might still find advice that recommends a "no silicones" or "no shampoo" regimen to combat dryness. Feel free to experiment, but if you don't see the results you hoped for (the results should be softer, more manageable hair!) come on back to the other side.

Updated September 18 2012

Henna for Hair: Frequently Asked Questions

2011-03-21T23:01:55Z

Henna is a plant that grows in the Eastern hemisphere. For decades, women from North Africa, India, and the Middle East have used henna to stain their hair, skin, and nails. The red henna dye is contained within the leaves of the plant. After the plant is harvested, the leaves are dried, ground, and sifted into a flour-like powder. In the last few years, henna has become a popular treatment option for African American women seeking more natural remedies for their hair. Check out the most frequently asked questions.

Is henna safer than commercial hair dye?

Yes, but it's very important that you only use 100% pure henna. Commercial hair dye and low-quality henna mixtures may contain additives like PPD to make the dye stain stronger and darker. Dye additives may cause allergy problems or react with chemicals that have been previously applied to your hair. The FDA has approved henna for use as a hair dye, but does not regulate its safety. That means the seller of the henna is the only one who really knows the quality of what you're purchasing. Mehandi.com and LUSH Cosmetics are two suppliers known for high quality.

Henna is gentler on your hair than permanent hair color because it only deposits dye on to the surface, not inside the cortex. The effects from henna are most similar to semi-permanent hair color. Both are safe enough for ethnic hair.

Can I get the same color results using henna as with commercial hair dye?

Maybe. Pure henna powder can only produce a red to orange-red color. Different crops produce different levels of red, ranging from auburn to cherry. If you see henna advertised as producing black or brown shades that means the henna has been mixed with some other substance. For example, henna is commonly mixed with cocoa powder to produce reddish brown.

Since henna is a depositing dye, it cannot lighten your hair...only lifting agents like bleach can do that. If your natural hair color is dark black, henna may not show up at all or it may produce a red shimmer.

If your natural hair color is dark brown or lighter (including grey), you are likely to see a color change after your first henna application. The color should be subtle, but it will increase in intensity after every treatment.

If your hair is bleached or relaxed, your hair is more porous. Extremely porous hair absorbs chemicals more easily and the henna may absorb into the hair cortex instead of just coating the outer shaft. The color may still be subtle, but definitely noticeable in direct light. Don't use henna unless you plan to discontinue chemical treatments. You should not use conventional hair dye or relaxers on previously henna'd hair

*Henna is a very inexact method of coloring your hair. If you really want a substantial change in hair color, you are better off visiting a licensed cosmetologist.*

Will henna loosen natural African American coils?

Sometimes. A quick Internet search produces thousands of results on the subject. The only thing we know for sure is that everybody's experience is different. If you want to loosen your natural coils, you can experiment with henna. Any effect will happen gradually. Most women who report looser curls say that it took 3 or more treatments to see any difference. If you truly wish to transform Type 4 coils to looser curls, a chemical treatment (applied by a licensed cosmetologist) will deliver more significant and uniform results.

How do I get the most out of my henna treatment?

First, purchase your henna from a reputable supplier (see above). To get the most value for your money, choose pure henna with high dye content. Typically, 100 grams of pure henna only contains 2 or 3 grams of dye. The rest is of the powder is ground up henna leaves that don't contain any dye power. Ask your supplier which henna they recommend to cover greys because that usually means maximum dye content.

When working with pure henna, the liquid that you use to help the dye release can impact the treatment results. An acidic liquid will help the dye release faster. Aloe vera juice is a great choice because its pH is low enough to smooth your hair's cuticles without making your strands stiff or dry. Always condition your hair after your henna, even if it already feels soft. A good commercial conditioner (Tresemme for example) will help seal in the dye from your treatment.

The biggest advantage with henna is that you can do it yourself. Your henna supplier will give you all the instructions you need for a successful treatment. A properly applied henna can add shine and softness to your hair. You can't count on any other benefits, but feel free to try it a few times and see what you get.

Updated September 18 2012

Ayurvedic Care for Ethnic Hair

2011-02-21T18:23:09Z

Ayurveda is a 5,000 year old system of preventive medicine and healthcare that originated in India. Ayurveda literally means "knowledge of life span". The book, The Way of Ayurvedic Herbs: The Most Complete Guide to Natural Healing & Health with Traditional Ayurvedic Herbalism, explains:

"Ayurveda looks to create a balance between body, mind, emotion, spirit and environment, and places emphasis on the ability of the human body to heal itself, with the assistance and support of a variety of non-toxic therapies, including medicinal foods, dietary programs, and herbal medicines."

Basically, Ayurveda says that everything from a healthy head of hair to a healthy heart is determined by your emotional well-being. Ayurvedic medicine requires that you get in tune with your inner thoughts and then pursue a lifestyle that keeps you feeling balanced and stress-free. Scalp massages are a great way to incorporate Ayurveda into your hair care routine. A scalp massage with essential oils will relax your mind and stimulate your hair follicles. To figure out which essential oils to use, take Dr. Deepak Chopra's Dosha Quiz to find your Ayurvedic "mind-body" type, also called a "dosha".

Vata dosha: Creative, tendency to worry, energetic

Best essential oils: Patchouli, Basil, Lavender, Sage

Pitta dosha: Likes challenges, tendency toward anger, cannot skip meals

Best essential oils: Ylang-ylang, Lavender, Rose, Sandalwood

Kapha dosha: Detail oriented, thoughtful, resistant to change

Best essential oils: Eucalyptus, Lemon, Peppermint, Rosemary

Add 2 or 3 drops of the recommended essential oils to a tablespoon or two of almond, coconut, or jojoba oil. The essential oils are included for their aromatherapy benefit, so remember to breathe deeply and take in each scent.

Expert Stylist Q&A: Camille Reed, Noire Salon

2011-01-25T23:48:10Z

Camille Reed is the owner of Noire Salon in Silver Spring, Maryland. She's been a licensed cosmetologist and natural hairstylist for over 11 years. Camille specializes in keeping natural hair in prime condition. In this Q&A, she offers us valuable advice about trims, deep conditioning, heat styling, and more.

You've been a natural hairstylist and licensed cosmetologist for more than a decade. How has your philosophy changed over the years?

My philosophy on hair has remained the same...."Following the legitimate rules of science, even with organic materials, produces consistently healthy hair." It's only when these common rules are broken that mistakes and damage occur.

What is the biggest myth about natural hair?

One of the biggest natural hair myths is that we don't need trims. I've seen long, beautiful hair halfway destroyed for denying this very necessary element of care. Hair is a fiber and unlike a synthetic material, has a shelf life. Daily styling and routine washing wear down the oldest hair, which is at the ends. When the fiber begins to shred and split, it cannot be "recovered" or "sealed"...it must be removed.

What hair advice do you give to your clients that they aren't listening to?

Thankfully, I have very compliant clientele, many who have been with me for 5 years or more. They have had time to see the results of accurate science in practicum. I spend time educating new clients so that they learn to notice when the hair is in its best shape. Healthy hair care is maintained with good communication between Stylist and Client.

What's more damaging heat styling or color treatments?

Both of these can cause permanent and irreversible damage if done by someone improperly trained/educated in Cosmetology. There are many things considered "DIY"...these are not included in that list. Please leave high heat applications and permanent coloring to licensed professionals. DIY'ers need to both understand and respect their limitations. I respect people trying to save money, however, these are two fields in which novice experimentation will be costlier than just making the investment in a trained stylist.

What do you define as "deep conditioning"?

Deep conditioning is using a product specifically formulated and pH balanced to be as soothing to the hair cuticle as possible. Most drugstore and even some organic products are not pH balanced, thus leaving the hair in a state of dehydration. A good "deep conditioner" will also contain very light sealants to protect the cuticle from dehydration due to environment. Deep conditioning has little to do with use of heat and more to do with good chemistry.

What tips do you have for naturals that need a workout-friendly hair regimen?

pH balanced products, regular trims and protective styles set on damp hair like twists and/or 2 strand flat twists

What are your favorite products?

KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Sulfate-free Shampoo and KeraCare Moisturizing Conditioner for Color Treated Hair

Anything else you want to tell Hair Liberty readers?

All products are not created equal. Research everything! Even organic products.

You can find Camille at Noire Salon, (301) 335-6257. Follow her on Twitter @Noireboss1.

The Hair Growth Diet

2011-01-21T01:21:32Z